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Posts Tagged ‘Lanquin’

i made it to Tikal today – the ruins in the middle of the jungle with tall temples rising up high, visible above the canopy from above. It was quiet there, few people on the grey day (which thankfully kept it cool) – the sounds of birds and the rare howler money could be heard as i and then with the people i met strolled the forest paths from group to group. Even the central plaza was quiet and empty as i climbed the temples to observe the scene below. It was wonderful but also made it hard to imagine the city in its prime – full of people, probably mainly deforested, and noisy i am sure. The life that exists there now is different from what was before, over a thousand years of existence, and now only partially reclaimed from the forest. The temples large, but with little decoration or sculpture – at least that remains.

The area that spoke to me the most was the Mundo Perdido, the lost world, with its large pyramid (rather than temple that were in the other groups) dating back to 500 bc. I came from the backside, seeing a hill, and a bit of exposed stonework at the top, ¨hey, this must be a pyramid¨ i said, i climbed down from my perch and walked around, and on the other sides it was exposed, it was. And it made me think of the pyramid shaped hills i has been seeing over the past few days. And as we walked around the main excavated area, we saw many more hills, which were structures, still unearthed, and others partially exposed.

And i began to think about how many sites of previous people there are, as yet Undiscovered and unknown to us. There are so many smaller sites, and so much of even Tikal that needs to be explored. And how rich is this land, not only in Guate, but all around the americas and elsewhere in the world, discoveries of previous cities, found, and how many have been built over, and what secrets does the earth hold. What have we forgotten, and what has existed before, only to be covered over and forgotten, only to be called up from the jungle or forest or lands again, and what knowledge and spirits and memories are enclosed in the land. And what does it mean that we have ¨found¨them again, and what are we calling forth in reclaiming them.
In Lanquin, where the land felt dear to me, a special edenesque feeling, i noticed that the lower hills in the valley reminded my of pyramids, so many of them, with a special feel, mainly uninhabited, and i wondered if they were in fact ruins, and i think it is more and more possible that they could have been. There was a feel to the place. And in the river, near Semuc Champay stood a stone with a face, and it looked so much like the stella in these sites.
And it is possible that people lived and built so many more places than we know now, for after all, what is known today is different that 100 or 200 years ago. And on the long bus ride here, between coban and sayaxhe, there were more of these hills, not only in the mountains but going into the lowlands, and i sat staring out the window wondering what lay beneath.
For what we know is only partial. and at tikal, with many partially reconstructed temples and buildings, we have made interpretations based on what we have found and know. And likewise with the sculptures. We dont really know what was there for sure, we can only imagine as far as our imaginations will stretch – Tikals heyday was at least 500 years from 400-900 ad, though it existed for so much longer with new structures built upon old, and changes made. And it was only known to the outside world in 1848.
And what will people make of our ruins, a discussion of north american homes with the large ornate bathrooms and kitchens, toilets as fountains or home temples, and the eco-construction in a few in guate – with plastic bottles filled with plastic garbage used as filler in concrete walls etc.
The land is rich with what is not known and there is so much that has not come into our vision or consciousness. What is really hidden below.
I walked the site with some others, in the jungle, nature reclaims and all changes, the natural and human (or beyond human as some will say) lives both, an interplay, and i climbed up the temples to look below at the jungle stood below looking up, different perspectives, and looked onto the central plaza from the north and south, and from the highest temple, number 4, only the peaks of the other main temples were visible, but was once afforded a view of the entire city.
And it is an amazing site – but still today was the first dat is over 6 weeks that i have not been surrounded by the mayan women in native dress who live today, only saw 2 – with families as tourists, snapping photos as well, all is change and so much is unknown – how many civilizations are still lost and how many of those hills are buried structures. I wonder if a piramid really exists under lake atitlan (see previous entry) I will stretch my mind forward and past and now.

(photos to come)

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I feel that i have reached a corner of the garden of Eden, or one of its semblances here on earth. I took my camera out again yesterday, in new location, though the internet is very slow and i will not be able to upload anything for some time.
I am in Lanquin in the centre of Guatemala, a beautiful place, the most beautiful i have been to for some time. and yesterday i went to Semuc-Champey a place that i have been hearing about on my travels and it is a beautiful as the people say though the sky was grey all day.
Words do not do justice to this place – green, green, green, a river here at the hostel in lanquin, mountains of trees, and some bare with the greenest grass and cows grazing. More tropical – bananas, corn and lush trees. The sound of birds, and yes mosquitoes. You feel embraced by the mountains, gentle and giving, rich with life, saying yes to live, nuturing.
Ride in the back of the truck to Semuc Champey – 9km down narrow good dirt road, i smile constantly even passing though the town. Every curve has amazing vista and it feels good to stand and feel the moist fragrant air on the face. pass through town and the along road a few simple homes, with thatched roofs, and dirt yards amongst trees, bananas, coco, fruit and of course corn.

I did not do the tour – I walked alone, yes alone on the trails and it felt wonderful – commune with nature – quite in the morning, a few others were in the park, but i sat by the river and the rapids below the pools and small waterfalls by myself just communing with nature, then up by the aqua pools with little fishes, amongst the ferns, the mountains shapely, a group came through, and another, crossing over the shallows, rock formations and more rapids above. I did not swim but the water kissed my feet.
I Hike up to the mirador. Up and up, on good trail few people, little caves, rock formations, two monkeys playing in the tree, The view down below actually looked like the one in the brochures, it is quite here and the rocks speak to me.
I walk back to the pools – more here not, and out by the river and to the parking lot to wait for my truck back to the hostel. Kids sell homemade chocolate, and a guy sells fruit – o eat mango. I walk back to the bridge, past maya working in corn fields, a guy with a machete, and walk out onto the bridge, look up river, a few dive off a large boulder, and the one below has a face.
The drive back as magical as the drive there – duck for a few branches as we pass another truck on the roads.
Today i went to town – lanquin – small but with market today – trucks and tuktuks (and the few SUVs and collectivos (make their way around the people – i one of a handful of gringos – mainly maya – and the dogs and the occasional chicken and as i walk out of town the pig( An old church – packed to the brim mainly woman and the service in the native language (though most also speak spanish(. the town condensed – a few tiendas, the trucks, churches, school, other stores, internet cafes, ans a few restos – the sky is still grey but it is so green, a new vista in every direction, hills and valleys, small farms and trees. Lush, lush, lush.

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